“I feel frustration and love in equal measures,” said Patrick Grant of his muse, Scotland. “They’re so precious about their tweeds and tartans, but then there are find-a-family tartans and tacky gift shops with highlander outfits.”
A tweed jacket that Grant won in an eBay auction inspired the scale of the checks on coats, while the colors of Scotland — the stormy seas, the greens and muted reds of heather, and rust — informed the palette. Oversize tartans came on bias-cut overcoats in cloudy grays and acid oranges, and there was a run of several belted trenches, worn over layered knits or a sharp suits. A nod to Grant’s other muse — a bored Hebridean teen who hangs out in a rusty van “drinking and experimenting with drugs and girls” — was seen in the exaggerated wide trousers that were tucked into socks to look like a tracksuit.