Fashion East men’s wear newbies Bobby Abley and Joseph Turvey joined Kit Neale, Maarten van der Horst, and Nasir Mazhar for a sports-centric group presentation in an imposing St James’s town house, which was just as much about the ingenious tableaux as the clothes. Guests were greeted in the hallway with van der Horst’s second men’s wear collection “all about logos and the corporate identity of big multinationals such as Shell and Lucky Strike. I wanted to take the content out of the logos and reduce it to something decorative,” he explained of the collaged prints on long-sleeve tops and jogging pants.
Turvey went to the dogs for his presentation — literally. Inspired by the imagined canines of Cruella Deville, it was dot central with every permutation of spot from polka and Jackson Pollock to classic Dalmation printed onto a suit, woven into a cashmere sweater, daubed on a hoodie, and even foiled onto a bomber jacket and cropped pant.
Bobby Abley’s collection had a Space Age theme, inspired by a combination of vintage episodes of “Twilight Zone” and the cartoons Astro Boy and The Jetsons. His stage set featured a bespoke flyingsaucer — a model encased within its glass dome – prints of atomic particles and a toy bear were realized over sweaters and trousers — the latter layered under a gray leather all-in-one with contrast collar and piping details.
Neale showed in a custom-made traditional British greasy spoon complete with specials boards and pie ‘n’ chips on the tables. “I wanted to take British icons and just f*** it up,” he said. To wit: A sweater bore the logo of The White Bear, his local pub; silk shirts were emblazoned with fried egg and Queen Victoria motifs; and the models sportedslippers shaped like giant footballs or with a Scooby Doo theme. Mazhar showed collage shell suits, with one model sporting a bucket on his head and another donning a futuristic cycle mask.