The designer paid tribute to the personal style of John Waters and the somewhat seedy characters that are part of his filmography, notably the actress and drag queen Divine, who appeared knitted into a sweater with contrasting nylon sleeves and embroidered onto a hoodie. Plaid was interpreted into a scratchy, jacquarded nylon in trousers and outerwear, while Long’s focus this season was the bomber jacket, which came in many guises, including one with a quilted body, and contrasting knitted slubby sleeves and ribbed cuffs. It was a jolie laide collection in a palette of sludgy brown, rust, black and oxidized yellow, all of which appeared in pieces that had been appliquéd with an abstract pattern inspired by marquetry techniques. Trousers were tailored at the top and ended with a sporty elasticized tracksuit hem. Ponyskin and PVC shoes came courtesy of Long’s new collaboration with Kurt Geiger.

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