Agi & Sam, the standout duo from last season’s MAN collective show, were back in action, putting a witty spin on British masculinity with two archetypal English characters: the farmer and the aristocrat. The former was played out through traditional rural kit, such as the padded gilet, which they paired with ribbed knits, shirts and a plaid coat and trousers. Designer Patrick Grant joined a lineup of ruddy-cheeked models — some with Mr. Darcy sideburns — showing off modern takes on heritage fabrics. Prints saw foxes and pheasants transformed into paisley. The aristocrats were dapper in their shawl-collar tuxedos and wing-collar shirts.
Meanwhile, Astrid Andersen looked once again into the sporting arena for inspiration. This season, it was bodybuilding and the narcissism associated with watching yourself pumping iron in a mirror. There were references to the hip-hop streetwear of the Nineties in the padded bomber jackets and the buttock-grazing dark denim jeans and matching jacket. The closing looks featured prints of logos and championship rings surrounded by hyacinth and hydrangea blooms and made for a fun finale.
Tone and texture were the key players in Craig Green’s game of light and dark. In a strict palette of white, cream, black and navy, he took traditional sportswear shapes — such as tracksuit bottoms and sweatshirts — and pared them down to their basic forms, giving them a rough-edged simplicity. Hand-painted, tone-on-tone stripes provided a subtle pattern, while embellishment came via sparingly used glitter and vinyl edging.