“I was looking at the underground art movement in New York between 1978 and 1981, as well as industrial images and at the post-punk era,” Richard Nicoll told WWD of his collection. “But I wanted it to be a collection I would wear; a bit preppy, sporty and clean.”

Nicoll worked a palette of blues, grays and traffic-cone orange — highlighted with flashes of silver in one truly knockout hooded parka — and a splatter print that occasionally turned up as a jacquard. Those sporty references were at play in a navy leather bomber jacket and matching trousers, while the closing look — a boxy orange jacket with matching trousers, beanie and lanyard from front to back pocket — had distinct penitentiary overtones.

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