The presentation opened with a stack of posh weekend bags, announcing the concept: everything a guy would need in his suitcase for a journey on the Trans-Siberian Express (although the destination could just as easily have been New York, Paris or London). Creative director Brendan Mullane’s debut lineup — worn by live models who stood in glass boxes dotted around the magnificent hall of Palazzo Serbelloni — confirmed the house’s repositioning as a more contemporary, though still elite, lifestyle brand that bridges the tailoring and sportswear segments.

The clothes were meant to be layered, with details shared across categories, such as metal closures on bags that resurfaced on outerwear. Mullane had slimmed down suits, but it was the outerwear that did all the talking. An array of rich wintry styles included a navy duffle coat, a cropped bordeaux sheepskin jacket, and a camel car coat with a taupe shaved beaver collar and — in a nod to the house’s sartorial roots — AMF stitching details front and center.

Energized by this heady moment for men’s wear, Mullane said it’s time to seduce men with its possibilities, including made-to-measure, which was documented in an artistic film at the entrance to the space. “We wanted to show how desirable the process can be,” he said.

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