Men’s creative director Italo Zucchelli nailed it this season, injecting his sober fall collection with the right doses of the season’s emerging trends. The utility vest — either quilted or sprouting multiple pockets — was the main protagonist, layered over handsome gray flannel suits, chunky sweaters or trim topcoats.

Zucchelli incorporated athletic influences in understated ways, as mesh panels crept over peacoats and sport jackets. Sweatshirts in patchworks of technical fabrics bulged to superhero proportions, accentuating his models’ strapping physiques. There were military flourishes, too, including cargo pockets on slim pants and flight jacket details on the sleeves of tailored jackets.

The show climaxed with herring-bone quilting embossed on tubular coats, more sweat-shirts and yet more vests. With this futuristic explorer look, the brand is surely going places.

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