After sending men’s fashion orbiting into the far reaches of futurism and technical experimentation, Silvia Fendi pulled it back to earth — and it looks terrific. In her strongest men’s proposition yet for the Roman house, the designer went for a more rustic and rugged look, vaguely referencing Icelandic fishermen and explorers transported to the city.

Outerwear was beefy and varied, from leather anoraks and swaggering wool topcoats to a sweeping cape in ice-blue felt. Fendi tamed her fascination for melding disparate fabrics without stitching, using the technique effectively on a shirt that morphed from tartan to solid red cotton, or a bomber jacket that went from blanket plaids around the shoulders to glossy nylon hugging the waist.

Models raced around a circuit of gangplanks as electronic musician Matthew Herbert pumped out the martial beats. Fendi’s machinery for men’s wear is gearing up.

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