This soft-edged collection married the sporty with the sartorial, tapping into the season’s major trends. Double-breasted jackets came with rounded edges or piping while others were knitted, or had textured weaves such as ridges or checks. Still others were quilted and came in light gray or charcoal — although these looked slightly bulky. Sweaters were made from a mix of cashmere and mohair and came with statement shawl or cowl necks or zip fronts — and they often replaced the jacket. Others boasted a mix of graphic shapes in gray, black and ruby red — one of Armani’s big colors this season. Ruby worked its way into a dramatic velvet suit and onto a leather vest that resembled a biker jacket.
Outerwear was also rich and textured, with an elegant, quilted suede baseball jacket and a lineup of fur-lined or fur-trimmed parkas, leather trenches and military-inspired olive green jackets with patch pockets.
Eveningwear was an ode to softness and texture, with velvet and leather coats and rounded edges on jackets. After the show, Armani said of the collection, “The shoulders are more important than usual, for a more spirited and less decadent man, who is more involved in what happens around him.” Armani’s fans won’t be disappointed.