The John Varvatos man might tote a briefcase and wear a tailored sport jacket — except the former is draped with a whiplike braid of leather, and the latter sprouts the sleeves of a biker jacket. Mixing the rough with the smooth, the designer crossbred English dandyism with New York cool for his fall collection — with mixed results. Parading on an industrial set resembling a metallic bridge, models wore everything from three-piece suits in nubby wools to chunky hooded sweater coats. To his credit, Varvatos nudged his rock-influenced look in a younger, more spritely direction — like the weathered leather car coat with sleeves slicked to a gloss that was a standout.

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