Clothes with a lived-in look. Despite Miuccia Prada’s high-minded set — artificial apartments set with low-slung, retro-futuristic furniture created by Rem Koolhaas’ firm — models strolled through the rooms in rumpled leather jackets, cropped pants and roomy sweaters, the shirts underneath untucked and with their collars askew. Some even sported rolled-out-of-bed hair, with cowlicks in need of taming. Geek chic has come roaring back.
“Fashion is basically about what you want to wear,” Prada said backstage, a red gingham shirt collar peeking out of her beige sweater. She explained that she set out to design “perfect classics of the moment: shirts, sweaters…” and to convey a “human and personal way of seeing fashion.”
While she bristled at the suggestion that there was nostalgia at play, there was no mistaking the thrift-shop feel of boxy blazers and raglan-sleeve coats in English and tablecloth checks, or ruffled tuxedo shirts in baby blue straight from prom night, circa 1976.
Prada’s skill is to transport ideas from the past — even banal ones — into the now. Her Chesterfield coats with velvet collars in unexpected shades; glossy leather cabans that stand away from the body, and brogues propped on chunky utility soles are sure to look right at home come fall.