Amidst after-dark scenes of New York City projected on the walls, models pounded a rain-slicked asphalt runway theater in demonstrative outerwear, statement collars in upright position to shield from the rain and prying eyes. Worn over cropped and narrow pants, topcoats with broad, rounded shoulders or military-influenced blousons with cocoon backs exemplified the top-heavy look ruling Milan’s fall runways.

Creative director Massimiliano Giornetti is a great colorist, and this season’s somber shades of forest green and graphite blue offered an elegant departure from spring’s brash colorfest. But the show was repetitive, and the austere, dense and stiff fabrics lacked warmth.

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