Rag & Bone’s Marcus Wainwright and David Neville broke with tradition for fall, jumping out of the mainstream by showing their men’s collection a week before New York Fashion Week’s official kickoff. Their well-executed and edited collection drew its inspiration from traditional English heritage injected with a shot of American sportswear references. “We built a collection based on timeless pieces,” said Wainwright backstage before the show, pointing to a double-breasted topcoat in a computer-altered Prince of Wales pattern and high-waisted Dickies-inspired workwear pants in mineral green. Tailored pieces were prevalent in dark tonal multiplaids in Japanese wool in three-piece models. But the relaxed suits, lack of ties and cropped silhouettes took the formality out of the offerings and made them young and dynamic. The easy balance between athletic influences, military references and a modern approach to iconic men’s wear staples showed the designers have a firm handle on their globe-trotting, sophisticated customer.

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