Like rereading a Thomas Hardy classic, the Ann Demeulemeester show evoked a Victoriana mood. For fall, her familiar romantic cavaliers wore slim coats with pleated vents at the back, and signature Demeulemeester layers: long aprons and filmy shirts flowing out from under vests and short, sloping jackets.

There were also monastic figures in dramatic full-length mohair sweaters. Demeulemeester stayed true to her brooding universe while blending in innovative outerwear, including voluminous, floor-length parachute takes on the military parka and sleeveless topcoats. Certain jackets had oversize sleeves gathering in pleats at the cuff to create interesting feminine-inspired volumes, or lovely embroidered tapestry surfaces.

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