Judging by its latest showcase, Berluti wants to prove its place in the luxury men’s wear jungle. The brand hosted a jaw-dropping presentation and dinner at Paris’ Natural History Museum surrounded by a Noah’s Ark of stuffed beasts, from baby pandas to elephants. One species caught the attention of tall-drink-of-water Karlie Kloss. “I feel at home with all the giraffes. They keep me company,” the model laughed.
A few dapper looks in bucolic shades were showcased on animal-headed mannequins in the specimen rooms leading up to the site’s gargantuan central atrium, where groups of live models posed amidst the menagerie. There was also a “family tree” of Berluti footwear tracing its roots back to 1895.
Honoring Neopolitan tailoring, a slim three-piece suit with sharp cigarette rolls at the shoulder and wide lapels was the hero of the clothing collection. A dizzying array of luxury textiles included a fuzzy cashmere punched through with angora. Sporty one-button jackets and six-ply cashmere knits were paired with narrow, slightly cropped pants with a flat or pleated front. A quilted blouson and double-breasted trench in painted brown leather had polished patinas recalling the house’s iconic shoes. There was a new take on the house’s hiking boot with a grainy surface and a striking derby with the graphic lines of broguelike perforations.