Aldo Maria Camillo, the designer charged by new owner Trinity Ltd. with rebooting the rechristened Cerruti 1881 Paris brand, is all about subtle subversion. Kicking off his debut show in Paris with a snatch of dialogue from “Rumble Fish,” Francis Ford Coppola’s classic tale of rebellion, he sent out a tightly controlled lineup where individuality lay in the details. Elongated coats might feature high pockets and a low, short slit in the back, or a deep back pleat concealing a row of buttons. Suit jackets and pants in classic shades of burgundy, navy and forest green were deliberately mismatched, and shirts replaced with fine sweaters with collarlike split polo necks. As a Parisian brand with strong links to Italy’s textile industry — many of its fabrics are developed exclusively by founder Nino Cerruti’s Lanificio F.lli Cerruti mill — the house sits in an ambiguous niche. Camillo, who previously worked at Valentino and Ermenegildo Zegna, brings to it a distinctly Italian sensibility that could be Cerruti’s trump card, after a turbulent recent past.

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