Dries Van Noten had a major hit on his hands with his grunge-inspired women’s show for spring. He gave his men’s collection for fall the same intoxicating, anything-goes spirit. The opening look — a robelike jacket in a patchwork of foulard prints and patterned tweed, worn over studded leather pants and sandals — set the hippy, lounge-y mood.
Prints are an emerging story at the Paris men’s shows, and here Van Noten let loose with an array of bold motifs: oversize paisley, large-scale checks and what looked like Turkish tile patterns. They crept over textured woolen coats, most of them generously proportioned, and an array of tapered pants, some with motocross details such as quilting; others with the ease of sweatpants.
The globe-trotting bohemian look was sometimes literal — as in gauzy, scarflike tunics bordered in fringe — or more subtle, like a meaty mohair sweater over a pajamalike shirt and embroidered denim pants. Interspersed were more familiar, and plainer options, including handsome navy topcoats and loose and low-slung suits and jackets. The magic was in the mix, and Van Noten cast a spell that’s bound to be influential.