A rebel streak ran through Bill Gaytten’s collection for John Galliano, which coincided with the announcement that the disgraced founder of the label would make his return to fashion with a residency at Oscar de la Renta. Officials at John Galliano declined all comment on the surprise comeback, preferring to focus on his successor’s collection, which was inspired by Joseph Beuys.
Predictably, there was camel felt aplenty, but Gaytten drew as much on the artist’s work as on his outlaw persona — after all, Beuys once staged a performance on the spot in Chicago where gangster John Dillinger was shot to death.
Models wore outsized versions of Beuys’ signature felt hat, while boxy jackets and drop-crotched cropped pants gave them a backwoods Thirties swagger. Patterns were blown out of proportion, with pinstripes that looked like hand-drawn chalk lines, and a bold white-on-black windowpane check.
Prints ranged from a caramel-and-ash marbled design to a negative photo print of trees. A closing sequence of evening suits, some with tone-on-tone embroidered details at the knee or waist, brought the parade of ruffians to a dapper close.