Formal tailoring and artful deconstruction have always been pillars of men’s wear at Maison Martin Margiela, but the distance between them seemed greater than usual this season. The house played up the contrast between sleek tailoring and its signature patchwork creations in a show that could have been subtitled: “Civilization versus Barbarism.”
The opening lineup of suits, some paired with oversize coats, came across as surprisingly tame — until a closer look revealed that some of them were, in fact, jumpsuits with trompe l’oeil jacket details.
The visual surprises continued, as evidenced by a poncho pieced together from fur scraps, and another assembled from beat-up leather biker jackets. A cardigan made from chunks of cable-knit sweaters, worn over a black suit with satin lapels, established a truce between the two extremes.