With The Rolling Stones back on tour, and a surprise album from David Bowie out soon, it’s no wonder Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli are among the ranks of designers speaking with an English accent this season.
Skinny suits in nifty plaids or tiny houndstooth checks were topped with pert Macintoshes and stiff capes, exuding a cool and young Sixties vibe. But everything was done à la Valentino. That means precision couture techniques and luxury touches, like the black leather bands bonded to the waists of navy coats, or the tinted fur spilling out of a prim tan overcoat.
While undoubtedly chic, the collection was polished to such a high degree that it seemed destined for the screen, as the poster for Michelangelo Antonioni’s 1961 “La Notte” that was plastered on the mood board backstage suggested. As if on cue, a French journalist turned to his neighbors in the middle of the show asking: “Do you know what movie this music is from?”