To the sound of Scottish bagpipes, Yohji Yamamoto sent out a clan of renegade shepherds clad in kilts — some of which were provocatively slit on the side to include fluffy faux-fur elements. They were always topped with a formal and polished suit jacket, in black, gray or pinstripes, as mustachioed models playfully sparred on the runway.

Drifting from the Highland theme, there were bold, ankle-length knitted coats, including one bearing leopard spots in a daring shade of pink. But military outerwear stole the show, including one in olive wool with a supersize collar over voluminous pants. The Japanese designer showed off his humorous side with boiler suits with the tromp l’oeil effect of an elegant three-piece suit sitting in the front.

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