Long live the Thatcher Era. Former British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher may have died nearly a year ago, but the spirit of rebellion — and counterculture — that her divisive politics sparked is thriving on the London men’s runways. Alexander McQueen’s show — typically, held in a rough-edged, deconsecrated church — was no exception.
The brand’s creative director Sarah Burton — who for the first time took her end-of-show bow with Harley Hughes, McQueen’s head of men’s wear design — turned out a punkish collection with luxury flourishes and pops of color and shine. There were clerical coats with a sweep of vertical pleats at the back, and a lineup of three-piece kilt suits with short, military-style jackets and trousers, some picked out in bright pink and black tartan. Black leather jackets were lined with shearling, while dark kilts and knits sparkled with gold zippers.
Coats were long and dramatic. Some were emblazoned with John Deakin photographs of Lucian Freud and the late British poet and translator Oliver Bernard, while others were embroidered with snippets from Bernard’s “Peace Poems.” McQueen’s signature tailoring had its moment in the form of gray suits with thick geometric stripes patchworked onto the front and shoulders, or evening coats with fat gold strips woven onto them.