In a cross-pollination of ideas from his women’s pre-fall collection, Christopher Kane’s men’s line riffed on images of molecular structures, manipulated every which way. “I love technology, I love science. I was playing with the structure of those molecules you get in science class,” said the designer during a static presentation. The molecules were rendered as a blown-up digital print on oversize jersey T-shirts, while the DNA double helix was woven into a vibrant orange wool sweater, Kane’s tech-inspired take on the cable knit.
Tailoring also played a bigger part in the collection this season, a result, Kane said, of his business — now part of Kering — having Italian factories at its disposal. The designer’s take on the sartorial spotlighted inventive fabrics — one slim-cut dark navy suit was stitched with a subtle, 3-D geometric molecule pattern, while another dark suit was done in a textured snakeskin print, a masculine take on the serpentine fabrics that appeared in Kane’s women’s pre-fall collection.