Crombie is undergoing a brand reboot under designer Chris Brogden, who has only been in the job for eight months (he hails from DKNY, Ungaro and Tommy Hilfiger). His inaugural show, Modern Militia, was “based around the idea of a civilian uniform,” reimagining the brand’s archival pieces with a luxe sensibility.

New shapes are the Expedition jacket with coyote fur hood and Double Breasted Trench — lined in lightweight kid goat fur and featuring bridal leather hardware (in a collaboration with Swaine Adeney Brigg. Key shapes he’s moved forward include the namesake Crombie overcoat in broken herringbone with astrakhan collar instead of the traditional velvet and an updated version of the King Coat as worn by George V in in broken dogtooth lined with beaver fur. Other hits included bonded leather coats with shearling and cashmere linings — some styled with bonded leather shirts beneath.

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