There was a tough, edgy mood to the emerging designers’ collections in Fashion East’s static group show this season. Liam Hodges’ gritty lineup was among the standouts, as were collections by Tom Ryling and Nicomede Talavera. Citing roadies as one of his inspirations, Hodges’ models stood amid a pile of steel sound equipment trunks wearing heavy-duty work-wear patched with stripes of black duct tape, with one coat covered entirely in strips of the shiny tape. Ryling’s tableau of balaclava-clad models struck a dystopian note. They wore white denim jackets and jeans daubed with red paint, along with long coats and boxy T-shirts printed with a black and white static print. In contrast, Talavera’s collection captured a gentler mood, with youthful-looking models wearing sports-influenced pieces in unexpected fabrics, such as lamb’s leather and Italian wool. Taking his cues from Nigel Shafran’s images of suburban Nineties teens, the designer crafted shrunken knit sweaters from patches of navy, black and blue wool, while the workaday anorak was redone as a sleeveless, zippered vest in soft leather, in color blocks of deep red, green and white.

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