Jonathan Anderson had King Louis XIV — and his aristocratic peers — on the brain for this collection that could just as easily hang in a woman’s wardrobe as a man’s. Anderson layered ribbed, multicolored tabards — all with a knightly flair — over wide, cuffed trousers that hit midcalf, and finished the look with shiny platform shoes that had a clownish look to them. Poncholike tops that wrapped or draped around the body revealed bits of flesh here and there, while ruffles tumbled down the front of crinkly black shirts. Delicate origamilike folds of fabric that spilled from the waistbands of suit trousers and flower-covered flecked yarn suits gave Anderson’s men a feminine flair that was jarring.
Anderson said he wanted to give viewers the perspective of looking up at the oil painting of an aristocrat. Anderson’s men also carried bucket, triangle-shaped or soft, scrunched leather bags, which the designer said were a teaser for his women’s pre-fall collection. Jewelry — as in the thick, chunky bracelets adorning models’ wrists — may also be in the offing.