Operating in what he calls “the twilight zone between fashion and politics,” Matthew Miller turned out an androgynous collection that mixed fluid and tailored shapes, with pops of texture coming from fluttering bits of fabric like black confetti. Looks were constructed from contrasting layers, such as nubby tailored jackets with patch pockets worn over loose and boxy collarless tops and full trousers cropped at the ankle.
Bits of fabric, meanwhile, flapped delicately from trouser legs and coat lapels. Models — with piercings here, there and everywhere — carried big black banners hand-sewn with slogans such as “love” “rent life” and “new build utopia” throughout the show. Politics aside, the collection, while a bit repetitive, worked overall thanks to Miller’s sharp eye for shape, proportion and raw-edged flourish.