Richard James sent a pack of impeccably dressed Teddy Boys onto his runway for fall. Models with slicked-back hair marched out in suits that had slightly shrunken proportions, with jackets and pants cut high at the sleeves and ankles, in fabrics that ran from deep purple velvet to muted gray flannel. James nodded to the more sober side of the look with tailored topcoats in toned-down, natural fabrics, such as textured chocolate brown wool or a grayish blue windowpane check.

The subculture’s flamboyant mood came through in judicious splashes of color. There were waistcoats in a deep red geometric-patterned silk, along with blue polka dot silk scarves knotted at the neck, while skinny ties were done in retro-looking purple and orange stripes. The result was a cool take on the Fifties aesthetic, which — thanks to James’ deft cuts and use of luxe fabrics — didn’t slip into costume territory.

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