“We did lots and lots of color for spring, so the natural response for fall was lots and lots of black — one of my favorite colors. And there’s an emphasis on casual, and a stronger sportswear statement,” said Tom Ford, as models walked his showroom floor in mostly weekend and outerwear during a small presentation. Given the big freeze gripping Ford’s native America, the sturdy and ultraluxe outerwear could not have been more of the moment: There were waterproof parkas and jackets lined with coyote, cashmere, shearling or removable Neoprene; raincoats lined with mink, and down-filled blazers.
For warmer climes, Ford turned to a lightweight pack-a-mac with its own carrying pouch built into the lining. While volume played a big part in the outerwear, the overall silhouette was Sixties’ slim, as in pinwale corduroy suits with stovepipe trouser legs.
For evening, silk velvet smoking jackets with dropped shawl collars and spinning pinwheel or flower patterns were worn over turtleneck sweaters and paired with velvet tennis shoes — a first for Ford. “I have resisted the tennis shoe,” said the designer, but he finally succumbed, having figured out how to make them his own. Ford’s high- and low-tops came in hand-polished leather — he said it takes three days to get the polish right — or velvet.