Xander Zhou channeled a charmingly madcap, collegiate mood for fall. Models toting scrolls wore ankle- sweeping wool coats that resembled academic gowns, some with swaths of fabric draped over their arms. Also among the scholarly looks were oversize knit sweaters appliquéd with school crests, worn with wide-leg pants and floor-length wool scarves, in shades of tomato red and bright white. The most wearable elements of Zhou’s proposition were the slim suits with ankle-length pants in muted shades of black or gray that closed the show — they seemed a world away from the space-age tunic and pant suits in glittering gold that made a jarring appearance.

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