Creative director Brendan Mullane traveled to Japan — figuratively and literally — for this collection of one-of-a-kind pieces and delicate silhouettes.
Their interest piqued by a 1963 diary Mullane found in the Brioni archives describing a trip to Japan made by the brand’s cofounder, Gaetano Savini, the design team boarded a plane to the island nation. There, Mullane worked with kimono artists to create a nature print that he wove into dark suits and used on silk shirts. Silk bomber jackets were hand-painted with white and black cranes — which also feature in the print — and no two are the same. The Japanese theme extended to belted, wrap-front “kimono” jackets that resembled the top of a karate suit.
The collection’s cool palette of teal, icy blue, gray and burgundy, meanwhile, was inspired by Caravaggio’s chiaroscuro technique, as were the shadowy weaves on jackets.