Ennio Capasa designed the fall collection with his hero David Bowie in mind. The extravagance of the late Seventies was felt throughout the show, as models strutted in elongated, loosely fitted silhouettes to a remix of Bowie’s “Love Is Lost.” (Bowie is clearly having an Italian fashion moment — the same tune was heard earlier in the day at Corneliani.) Long felt and mohair coats stole the show. They were ample and manly, either boasting oversize lapels or borrowing from the tuxedo jacket for an intriguing combination. Glossy ponyskin anoraks in oxblood red and bottle green heightened the retro theme.

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