It’s time to hit the Pilates mat, the boxing ring or the shoulder press, because Giorgio Armani’s latest collection — with its body-hugging jackets and coats — is all about man curves, muscular ripples and powerful shoulders.
“Jackets are like cardigans, with the shoulders and torso hugging the body,” Armani said after the show, adding that his deconstructed designs of the Seventies with their big shoulders have given way to these form-fitting shapes.
The designer, who described his clothes as having “an athletic male silhouette with a spirit of sobriety,” sent out single- and eight-button double-breasted numbers with shortened lapels, in checks or solid gray flannel, many with a preppy feel, and raglan sleeves. Cardigans were cut like biker jackets, while peacoats were cropped at the waist, in tune with the more revealing silhouette. Trousers, too, were slim and tighter than in the past, although Armani also channeled the spirit of athleticism into gray tracksuit-inspired bottoms that gathered neatly at the ankle.
Texture played a starring role in the form of velvet for jewel-toned overcoats; rabbit fur coats, and short, fuzzy sweaters in shades of sage, claret and gray.