When Jil Sander departed her namesake label for the third time last year, her design team remained intact. That team delivered a solid, if safe, fall collection defined by youthful tailoring and fabrics that were either lustrous or cozy.
Mineral colors — from deep purple and teal to smoky greens and grays — were almost always worn head-to-toe, putting the focus on shapes. Tailored jackets and coats were boxy, whether hip-length or stretching to the knee with low-slung buttons. Pants were uniformly tapered from a high waist and cropped above the ankle.
Variety came via texture. Spongy leather coats, glossy shearlings and wet-look anoraks stood out and telegraphed modernity. Felt pants fronted with metallic bands seemed forced, giving legs a wobbly aspect as models walked. Sweaters were terrific, especially a crewneck sliced with a zipper from the rib cage to the hem.
While the moody jewel tones and boots with heavy lacquered soles gave the show a futuristic gloss, the collection lacked the spark that a creative figurehead can bring to a designer brand.