A little definition has been in order as the Richard Chai Love lineup has yet to establish a strong identity in the women’s contemporary market.
This time out, a grunge-inflected attitude marked by murky colors, cool slouchy tailoring and, of course, plaid, was a direction worth developing. Cutaway blazers and oversize wrap coats in plaid, camel and a chalky blue were the standout statements, functioning as structured toppers and a base of languid layers. The look was very borrowed-from-the-boys, specifically Chai’s boys.
Indeed, the men’s wear was more compelling as Chai excelled in finding the right balance between modern tailoring and a youthful street aesthetic. Three-button blazers in petrol green and toffee brown were often paired with tweed sweatpants, while sharp top coats were layered over suits for a grown-up look.
The leather outerwear — an ongoing collaboration with Andrew Marc — was best in show, particularly the half-leather, half-plaid toggle coat and a glazed wine-colored moto coat.