“It has a mountain theme,” said Tim Coppens backstage before his show, noting that the line drew heavily on traditional loden. “It’s a 100-year-old fabric but we took it out of its usual context,” he added. It worked best on an ivory duffle coat with rough edges and a kimono-inspired plaid coat — both of which represented new ground for the designer. With this lineup, Coppens embraced a more classic take on men’s wear without losing sight of his activewear DNA — a combination that is the right move going forward.

The small women’s offering was an extension of the men’s — but “cuter,” said Coppens — and also focused on outerwear. The designer’s technical ability for garment construction shone through in a futuristic parka with military influences and a tailored double-faced wool cotton blazer with a bomber collar. Statement scarves that at times felt like extensions of the rich knitwear offered nice finishing touches.

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