Guillaume Henry gave his arty Left Bank male a dash of attitude for fall, with a collection inspired by American thugs from the early 20th century. “I was just looking at all these books of police mug shots, and all these guys, they were anonymous and they were so cool,” he said backstage.

Henry did not break with his retro-flavored and quintessentially French aesthetic, turning doodles inspired by vintage tattoos and prison-cell graffiti into a print that was overlaid on everything from a collarless pin-striped shirt to a brown felt parka.

Workwear influences ran through the collection, both literally — as in coal-colored washed denim jackets and a multipocketed cream shirt — and indirectly via boxy volumes on suit jackets and coats.

The outerwear was especially appealing. Coats in boiled or double-face wool were oversize yet cut with precision. A boxy biker jacket in checkered tweed sprouted sleeves in pebbled black leather.

“I’m really into shapes, I’m really into volume, I’m really into sleeve pieces — mostly because Carven used to be a couture brand, and I always like to focus on this idea of couture history for the brand,” explained the designer, who threw in a handful of women’s looks from his pre-fall collection to round out the presentation.

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