Itsy-bitsy spider went down the Hermès runway — as a 3-D motif embedded on a cashmere sweater, signaling a flirtation with the darker side of fashion at the august house.

Even if the press notes spoke of “phantom leather detail,” “hydro-rubberized lambskin” and “metamorphosis just beneath the surface,” Véronique Nichanian had not quite gone Goth, a word muttered by a few editors exiting the show. Instead, she employed inky colors, acres of leather and either slim or generous silhouettes for a sober and quietly sexy collection.

You can count on Nichanian, who has logged more than a quarter of a century at the helm of Hermès men’s wear, to be a reliable barometer of where fashion is leaning, but never rushing in headlong. She hit on many of the key ideas percolating right now — utility, sport, streetwear, mismatched tailoring — and expressed them in that inimitable Hermès way: understated, masculine, expensive.

While the glazed fabrics and head-to-toe leather looks were sometimes a little too much, the rich simplicity of some of the clothes could floor you. Look no further for the ultimate navy peacoat (the cuffs and hem dipped in black leather) or varsity jackets from the university of hyper-luxury, melding lambskin and crocodile skin as fluid as chiffon.

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