“If you’re going to do South America, you can’t not do vicuña,” Kim Jones mused during a preview, discussing how NASA maps of the Atacama Desert were the starting point for a collection built on “lightness, ease and comfort.”
Since the name on the door is Louis Vuitton, why not “extreme vicuña,” a fiber of unfathomable softness harvested by brushing under the chin of the llamalike animals?
“We have an apex customer,” said Jones, men’s style director, by way of explanation, noting that tunics and travel suits made of the stuff would be perfect for boarding a private jet.
What was remarkable about this ultrachic collection was that, despite all the hyper-luxury on display, it read personal and cozy, not showy.
Jones added a generous helping to the season’s glut of gorgeous coats: overcoats and robe styles in double-face cashmere, sometimes traced with Peruvian stripes; handsome blousons in blanket-striped alpaca, and glossy silk anoraks lined in fur.
Shearling parkas, rugged mountaineering sweaters and high-tech explorer shades tempered the precious nature of some of the clothes. A new range of business suits — stripped of padding, slim-fitting and loaded with practical pockets inside — had a youthful allure in micro-patterns. Also new is a host of leather goods in a cobalt version of the Damier check, already available for purchase online.
Items in vicuña, crocodile and chinchilla are made to order, to solve niggling problems like, Jones noted, “What do you get Mr. Valentino for Christmas?”