Maison Martin Margiela’s fall offering focused on crisp tailoring — with a pinch of craziness. Known for sourcing fabrics in the most outré places, the design team gave scraps of tents and dinghies a second life, reworking them as ultramodern outerwear pieces, including a lightweight — and clearly water-repellent — parka.
Elsewhere, diving vests were resurrected and assembled into a biker jacket with an industrial feel, but with an open back. The front of a military coat was adorned with briefcaselike buckles. Composed of slouchy, single-pleat pants and slightly abbreviated jackets, suits were suave and oozed a retro charm, compatible with the gusto of today’s laid-back gentleman. Even Will Smith, seated front row at the show, suited up for the occasion.