Rick Owens’ army of Gothic gangsters was, in his own words, a representation of “how men create and reject authority” via clothing. “I thought a lot about how I did it and how much dignity goes into it,” the designer said backstage. “But it’s not angry, it’s just a proposal.”

Owens used the toughness of cowhide and sturdy taffeta to construct a series of XXL Bermuda shorts and onesies, their crotches dropped so low that MC Hammer could have fit in them twice. With long zippers meandering across the models’ backsides (for potty time, presumably), the ensembles were toughed up with slouchy knee-high leather boots.

The head scarves most models wore read “L.A. gangster” or “Nun,” depending on what side of authority you’re on.

A run of leather tunics resembled protective shields, while military tactical vests with big-size pockets further fed into the defiant theme. Colors included rusty brown, new for Owens, and dirty gray.

As the show progressed, the looks gradually assumed a more couturelike nature via a jacquardlike fabric Owens sourced in Italy. “It was too sophisticated, so we boiled it,” he explained laughing, noting it came out looking like “brutalist concrete walls.”

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