Made-to-measure Valentino jeans — available at the Roman brand’s handsome new men’s flagship in Paris — may well be the epitome of stealth wealth. Those denim pieces seemed to summarize the spirit of the powerful fall men’s collection that creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli paraded in Paris.

It was all about offhand luxury, as models ambled past in pin-striped suits inspired by pajamas, and oversize double-faced wool coats that looked as comfortable as robes. Herringbone tweed suits had a similar laid-back chic, dressed down with the latest variations on the brand’s Rockrunner sneaker.


Chiuri and Piccioli indulged their taste for sumptuous craftsmanship with what they dubbed “haute couture” coats, robe-like double-face styles handmade in the label’s workshop on Piazza Mignanelli in Rome. Other stunners included a glistening patchwork fur cape, and two coats with owl motifs emblazoned across the back and shoulders.

Wool outerwear with geometric motifs that mirrored the kilim-style rugs laid out on the catwalk added to the appealing, rich bohemian vibe.

Chiuri explained recently that the duo’s approach to men was “to create something special, high-quality, modern and contemporary — and iconic — for each category, to propose pieces like objects of desire.” Judging from front-row guest Will Smith’s reactions, this collection should go down a treat with the millionaire boys’ club.

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