Glenn Martens’ first collection for Y/Project took the brand’s codes — leather and lots of black — and made them sharper and less gothic. Pants were wide, almost baggy, with textured leather making several appearances, while a bronze tailored lambskin jacket and fitted suede shirts stood out among the diverse range of shapes. The collection also showcased the label’s first women’s wear items, including long silk skirts and slit pants. And asymmetrical necklines and ruched details added a twist to otherwise simple-looking T-shirts and dresses.

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