Casting an eye over the run-of-show for his fall men’s collection — which was loaded with hefty knits and homespun details — Jonathan Anderson noticed that the typical Seventies crochet squares he employed for coat sleeves, long scarves — and the occasional apron — have a modern, visual cousin.
“It kind of looks like iPhone apps,” he said after his show, a visual feast filled with enveloping layers, psychedelic patterns and inventive knitwear — some of it spliced into woolen coats and leather jackets — that are bound to be influential.
The color and pattern play didn’t end there. Anderson also projected images, silhouettes and proportions from the Middle Ages onto an organic, craft-intensive interpretation of modern street wear, describing “pagan knights” as the inspiration for tunics layered over trousers and images of warriors that looked as if they’d been pieced together from stained glass.
It was easy to spot the items that will get the photo bloggers frothing at the mouth: The chunky knit capes and scarves with dangling fringe; the tabardlike sweaters drooping to the knees; the tailored coats and leather jackets with ballooning knit sleeves, or crocheted ones; the backpacks with giant piercings, and the shoes with the knit tongues flopping over the toes.
Men’s designers in London seem to be reacting to a turbulent 2016 by retreating to the groovy protest styles of the Sixties and Seventies and arming men with clothes that wink to military dress. Anderson’s display made one think of cocooning at home with balls of wool, hooked needles — and maybe a mug of warm mead.
“I like this idea of something very knit-y — it makes you feel cozy,” said Anderson, musing about the “idea of getting lost in the womb of fashion, this idea of layers on layers, this idea of a defense mechanism.”
Bring on the knight.