Not since the days of Miguel Adrover has a Spanish designer presented such an out-of-the-box take on men’s wear.
In his New York Fashion Week: Men’s debut, Alejandro Gomez Palomo gave a jolt to the conventional fashion system by presenting an absolutely gender-fluid collection, dressing male models in beautifully executed couture-like dresses in fabrics from silk to sheer chiffon.
“I’m trying to bring couture back to the boys,” Palomo said backstage.
In the past, Palomo reinterpreted folkloric Spanish dresses for men, but this time around, his approach felt more metropolitan.
“This is New York and I wanted to think of what Palomo would be in New York,” he said.
The Big Apple backdrop meant a pleated skirt suit in metallic silk with a polka dot print, sleeveless jumpsuits in graphic patterns and extremely flared pants — and a leopard-print topcoat with matching high-heel boots.
With the use of garters, ultracropped skirts and a healthy dose of transparencies, it was clear Palomo was exposing the power of sexuality. “I’m exploring my most sexual self,” he said.
The collection was far from commercial, obviously, but Palomo is tapping into a major social vibe and his addition to the calendar provided a breath of fresh air.