Robert Childs likes to start with a fictional character and build his collection around that wardrobe. Last season it was a seaman, and this time, he thought about bankers and bikers.
The Thom Browne alum read an article that said only 1 percent of bikers are involved with violent gangs, and this led him to thinking about the 1 percent — that tiny sliver of society where most bankers exist (some of whom might also be bikers).
He merged the two reference points nicely with a focused collection of tailored pieces and sportswear.
This season, the Childs suit comes in corduroy and consists of a double-breasted jacket and trousers with a slight flare — the designer said he wanted to create an almost hourglass shape for men. These suits came in lavender and a blood red. He also made a nylon suit with biker pants, one of the strongest pieces in the collection. This season many designers have attempted to play with the suit, but Childs’ updates feel fresh.
On the biker side, he cleaned up a leather café racer jacket, lined it with plaid and reconstructed the shoulder. He also showed nylon mechanic jackets with racing stripes and graphic T-shirts featuring the Childs logo on the back. Outerwear included a hooded, fleece coat and an oversized trenchcoat made from wool cashmere bonded with cotton.
It’s clear that Childs is obsessive about construction and understands how to make a garment. But what makes his collection stand out is that it’s as cool as it is refined.