Childhood, with the innocence and fantasy typically connected to it, continues to be Francesco Risso’s favorite source of inspiration. Starting with the show venue — where the designer wanted to re-create a sort of bonfire situation with editors and buyers seated in circle on a range of vintage objects, from barrels and bumper cars to plaster capitals and stuffed animals — to the collection itself, everything was injected with a playful, surreal mood.
A multitude of inspirations were poured into the frisky lineup, which was focused on deliberately wrong proportions. Pants were too big and the printed shirts had too long of sleeves, while knitted vests were cut in shrunken silhouettes. The characters of Risso’s dream-like and ironic parallel world were eccentric creatures, dressed in oversized suits, sometimes printed with children’s drawings of animals and everyday objects, as well as in exaggerated duffel coats worked in plaid patterns and blankets wrapped around the body. The unconventional look was enhanced by the insertion of gold and red jacquard fabrics with an Asian feel, while knitted sweaters and patchwork shearling exuded artisanal craftsmanship. This contrasted with the technical feel of a range of nylon jumpsuits and pants.
This was a personal collection and, while not for everyone, definitely stood out from the crowd among Milan’s sometimes too-safe men’s world.