“A tug-of-war for the clothes, taking suit jackets and suiting and pinstripes and bankers’ garb and trying to render it new in a more exciting, aggressive, unexpected way,” said Jeremy Scott, who sent out an all-in-black celebration of inclusiveness and bonding. Or make that bondage — as in an all-out hardcore affair but with a soft touch.
Everybody had their role to play, mixing men, women and creatures of different sexual orientation, with everyone on equal footing — and, of course, that footing was in thick-heeled biker boots or lace-up patent leather thigh-high ones.
Incorporating corseting and S&M bondage material, it was all about being constricted but being liberated through that constriction.
A run of velvet and sheer chiffon dresses sported prints based on photos that Turinese architect Carlo Mollino took in secret of “women of ill repute,” that came out after he passed away. “They were pictures that he labored over and sometimes retouched and I love these images,” said Scott.
With the body often completely covered in patent leather, you couldn’t tell the men from the women and vice versa, with the men wearing things that were feminine and the women wearing things that were tough. The casting included “Bel Ami” porn star Denek Kania.
But there was also a lot of skin, with Scott taking his shears to tailoring that hung from the shoulders using suspender systems like bra straps.
The dichotomy between the male and the female also played out on bombers with ostrich feather peplums, and the boxy jackets with masculine fronts and gaudy floral motifs at the back. Tuxedo jackets and coats sported trains ending with gloves, nodding to the house’s surrealist roots while also showcasing the quality of the workmanship.
Anoraks, shirts and slips covered in safety pin-tacked cut-out words like bottomed, tongue, mouthful, pleasure and bone, maintained his tongue-in-cheek punk streak.
Scott ended the show with a tandem tuxedo jacket on two short-haired models in heels, their jackets joined at the tail, “blurring the lines of gender — which one is male, which one is female?”