The “Game of Thrones”-style backdrop — set in the cloister of an ancient Paris convent, the runway wrapped around a courtyard lit by fire drums that the models had to walk through, with bits of ash blowing onto the crowd — was the perfect contrast to this super-refined collection.
Véronique Nichanian has a way of doing relaxed French style with a super-luxe delivery in terms of the materials, including a head-turning hooded parka in hazelnut crocodile. A two-tone, hazelnut and Hermès-red quilted coat in a patented fabric called Toilbright, which had the glossy sheen of a foil candy wrapper, added a cool retro feel.
This was the wardrobe of a super-wealthy bohemian, and the vibe even translated to some of the graphics, with colored mountain landscapes worked onto jacquard knits and the season’s supersized Birkin-esque bag, or used as an outline piping across rubberized lambskin sweatshirts.
The oversize volumes of the sweaters and pants emphasized the collection’s effortless mood. Tailoring remained fitted, with an on-trend six-button, double-breasted suit.
The traditional shearling that the house is known for was revisited in an elegant white version — a statement piece but when paired with slouchy leather pants, a green turtleneck and untucked white shirt artfully hanging out, it felt like an everyday outfit.
Pops of color came from neon yellow accents on outerwear and bubblegum pink layers, and the designer also folded in a subtle techno vibe with great zip-up pieces and lightly quilted shirts and parkas that blended into the scenery.
There was even an Hermès version of the utilitarian fanny pack that is trending this season, with Nichanian succeeding in injecting youth without compromising the house codes.