For his third collection, Kiko Kostadinov plucked uniformed agents from the British railways of the last century and outfitted them for the future. Boxy jackets hailed from the Sixties, paired with straight trousers — not too snug — and thick-soled black shoes. Completing the look, a pen poked out of a front vest pocket.
Trousers of varying lengths and materials, including a soft, quilted pair in gray, had flapped pockets on the left thigh — a recurring theme throughout. Another lighter touch to the collection came in the form of a fanciful green faux-fur jacket. The same fabric turned up again but in the form of cropped pants.
Metropolitan police got a new cape, made with the rubberized cotton that is the house signature, and came in gray, orange and prune.
Influence came from Robert Morris, known for arranging industrial felt into pieces of art in the Sixties, inspiring a mottled gray flight coat.
Kostadinov used the softer elements to steer the brand into more interesting territory without betraying the label’s sparse, futuristic approach that veers on androgynous.